A reader writes:
Hi Paul,
Happy New Year! Hope you are well. I snagged a great deal on ebay last night when the rest of the world was out dancing, I guess, and got a set of 10 Lionel #58 gooseneck street lamps for $80 bucks.
I bought them "untested" and am thinking they need to be rewired and possibly repainted. I'd like to do both myself. Do you have any tips/articles on rewiring these lights (threading that wiring up and around the curve seems to be the big challenge)? How about painting? They are that nice creamy yellow beige but look kind of knicked up. Not sure if spray enamel is the way to get that nice finish... any thoughts?
I do have a great train store (Nicholas Smith Trains) that is fairly local so if I need parts I can go there. Thought I might see if one of the guys there would help me with rewiring, but then thought maybe you knew of some articles or videos on the subject.
Appreciate your thoughts.
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Thanks for getting in touch.
I love those lamps myself. As a user, not a collector, I wouldn't be bothered by the idea of refurbishing them.
You might be surprised about the wiring, it could still be good in most of the lights. Cleaning the sockets out with something mildly abrasive, like a toothbrush and baking power or Comet, then getting them VERY clean and dry before you put the bulbs back might help restore conductivity. If wiring needs to be re-run you might try something you can PUSH through the tube first, like a nylon fish hook leader or a good stiff fishing line, then once you got that through, attach your wire to it and pull it through. Depending on how tight things are, "attach" might not mean knotting - it might mean laying the wires alongside the last inch or so of the nylon line and taping it smoothly so it will go through the tight diameters.
THIS is how I would refinish them. I'll copy a friend who has more experience with this kind of accessory so he can have his input.
The original enamel was actually baked on, using materials that you probably would have trouble finding today. If you want to try to keep that color, try to match it with a spray can you think is close. Depending on how dexterous you are (or how much paint fumes bother you), you COULD manually prime the parts that need touch-up.
Clean the whole lamppost. Then get a can of metal primer (usually gray) and some cheapo kids craft paint brushes - the ten-for-a-dollar kind. Go someplace with EXCELLENT ventilation where a little overspray won't be a problem (I do this outside on warm sunny days, which mean I don't do it often this time of year). Shake up the primer can thoroughly, then spray some into the cap. DON'T breathe the fumes. Use the cheapo brushes to dab the primer out of the lid and onto the dings. If you have time for this step, the overall project should look a lot more even when you're done.
A day later, use masking tape to cover the socket completely.
Spray the whole thing with a cleaner that doesn't leave residue and wipe it off carefully, being careful to get every surface clean and dry and NOT to touch the surface barehanded again, after that. Once that's dried thoroughly (maybe an hour), shake your cream-colored paint can thoroughly, then go some place with good ventilation where a little overspray won't be a problem. You should be able to stand them on something in a couple rows, then work from about eight inches away, going very lightly, then after a few seconds changing the angle and going again.
You want enough coverage, eventually, to blend the dings into the rest somewhat, without building up so much that it actually changes the shape of the lamps. And that part is WAY more art than science.
I hope this make sense. Since you have ten, each stage will take you a little more time than if you just had one or two, but not THAT much longer, since it's mostly prep.
I'll also post this on my BigIndoorTrains.com forum (without your name) and see if anyone else has input. I'll send you the link when I get it up.
Best of luck - Paul
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